The Hyères prize is as good a litmus test for fashion’s future as any design competition can be. The likes of Viktor and Rolf, Gaspard Yurkievich and Felipe Oliveira Baptista have debuted at the innovative festival, so it is no shock that this year’s contest introduces us to some idiosyncratic talents. Among them, winner Alexandra Verschueren stands out as an exceptionally individual voice. Looking at her collection it is easy to see why she won the competition; origami inspired fashions have become increasingly popular in recent seasons, but at their best Verschueren’s pieces eschew the trappings of their paper inspirations. There are strange and intriguing new shapes, but there are also smart updates on classic pieces, like the cocktail dress that looks as though it was reshaped by pinking shears, or any of the one of a kind coats. Their range breathes fresh life into the simple concepts; everyone will be wearing a camel coat come fall, but how many boast geometrical frills remniscent of wearable graph paper? The strength of Verschueren’s work lies in its ability to elevate these normal staples into something magical.

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