Seasonal flairs and continual growth aside, every collection by Haider Ackermann can be boiled down to a simple story detailing the ongoing romantic love affair between one man and draping. As routine as that may seem it is not a detriment- Ackermann’s passion for draping and his relentless expertise at the delicate art have garnered him a cult following of loyal admirers. For his latest collection ( Haider Ackermann S/S 10 Slideshow ) he refined his long and lean aesthetic into something light and airy.
For spring the draping adds to the grace of movement within each piece – as the girls walk the dresses glide with them and the shimmering fabrics catch the light and start to sparkle. Though the each look is monochromatic the varying textures – leather, satin, silk in a delightful mix – merge together perfectly. It will be interesting to see how the pieces look when taken out of their runway context and paired with different colors – can that to die for smoke colored leather topper on Irina work just as well with jeans or a chic Prada skirt? Time will tell.
In spite of the softer touches, the rigorousness of Ackermann’s previous work remains – these are beautiful clothes but they require a certain type of frame or at least a certain type of presence. Anyone looking to slink into the corner unnoticed need not bother with Ackermann’s sleek gowns – the austerity and clarity of vision within the collection demands something of the wearer. The right woman wearing that cobalt blue silk gown in just the right place would be unforgettable. Those razor sharp cuts and precisely draped fabrics demand attention.