Pleasant surprises are what make the hoopla of fashion week worthwhile. For F/W09 Angela Missoni veered her typically girly lineup of patterned knits into bold new territory ( Missoni F/W 09 Slideshow ) transforming runway queens into mountaineers with a heavily layered, multi textured collection that straddles the line between carefully disheveled misfit and wandering vagabond. The well coifed zig zag clad Missoni girls of seasons past have been replaced by an earthier being. The word bohemian lingers on the tip of the tongue but it doesn’t quite fit – the look in question isn’t boho, it’s something altogether more interesting.
Utilizing vast array of sweeping scarves, weighty cowls and those inescapable fur accents Missoni creates a glamour that is maximalist without seeming overdone. Muted beige and taupe shades paired with cool blues and greys each separate piece blends into the next creating strata of subtle colors that mirror the best of the house’s famed patterns. The mix of textures ads to the fun – a tweedy coat with several woolen scarves trailing behind it worn over zig zag tapered trousers and offset by the gold of several flat necklaces is one winning look. In theory the combination verges on overkill but in practice it stands out as a total (and shockingly wearable) look.
Even without the expert combos provided by adept styling there was a great deal of quality amongst the individual pieces. The thick sweaters look cozy and inviting, the delicate heels add a touch of femininity and the oversized cowls tap into the burgeoning demand for expressive neckwear. The closer you look the more things you find that are compelling – a dangerous prospect given the sure to be momentous prices. Even the iffy taupe leggings that anchor half of the looks are strangely enticing in their own special way. All in all Milan is off to a good start and every luxe gypsy / designer derelict on earth just found their September wardrobe. Were looking at you Mary-Kate.