There is an image of Kate Moss descending from a limo in a mini dress and fur chubby that sums up almost everything about Preen F/W 09. ( Preen F/W 09 Slideshow ) There is glamour and there is kind of masterfully nonchalant chic that Moss has made famous. Preen concerns itself with the latter – particularly in this season of cutout dresses and gumdrop colors. While the clothes are versatile and finely crafted they are also designed for the kind of youthful society misfit who enjoys a pub crawl as much as a soiree.
The collection begins with a series of bad girl basics of the jet black, razor edged variety. Engaging pieces but with the rise of Alexander Wang and continuing influence of Decarnin’s Balmain such accents seem almost de rigueur. The bold houndstooth prints and pixelated zigzags are a fine touch but the monochromatic segment feels too familiar to provide genuine excitement. The cutouts and sheer overlays do add provocative element of danger to the mix – the Preen girl may party but she’s no pushover, every peak-a-boo packs a punch.
Color is the turning point – infusions of yellow and salmon are a touch springy for F/W but somehow the anachronism works. A chartreuse coat with swinging folds is not the obvious choice for a blistery cold day but the pop of color coupled with the velvety soft richness of the material make it an appealing option for those looking outside the box. Something has to be said for reveling in the impractical and the majority of what was shown straddles the line between being either ill-conceived for the weather or just plain ill conceived. Even with the one of the decadent fur coats thrown over it, a leather shift is unwearable once the temperature drops.
But who cares about the cold when there is champagne to sip! Odds are anyone with the cojones neccessary to wear a pastel, colorblocked, cutout, skin tight mini dress is immune to trivalities like weather. For those in search of that jawdropping, camera ready cocktail hour frock Preen delivers the goods every time.