The it-bag era began and ended with Chloe. While other bags caused sensations before the the Paddington few caused the kind of upheaval and drama the padlocked and studded satchel brought about. More than just a bag, it served as a sort of signifier for fashion’s mood at the time. The bag was heavy, impractical, exorbitantly priced and gorgeous – the ultimate expression of disposable luxury. The subsequent craze that followed (complete with waiting lists and eBay markups) was manic and in some ways inimitable. Many have tried but no one has managed to replicate that manner of success. Even Chloe, the label responsible for the fuss has never experienced a repeat.

Repetition is of course an overrated concept. In an era that calls for the streamlined, the functional and of course the discreet a new purse de résistance is required. This season’s Sally bag might be just the thing. With it’s old school style (it looks like well preserved vintage piece) and subdued metal accents it calls attention to itself without appearing flashy. Unless of course you go for the over the top patchwork and python variant that is anything but understated. Sometimes a little flash goes a long way.