While fashion’s continued musical chair-esque designer shuffle can result in a serious lack in brand identity there are times when an infusion of fresh ideas can be exactly what the doctor ordered. When Gianfranco Ferré passed on in 2007 his house fell into the hands of Lars Nilsson, a capable designer whose tenure at Ferre was one of the shortest in fashion history. Behind he scenes dramatics resulted in a speedy upheaval and an uncertain future for the brand. Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi and were given the daunting task of restoring the Ferre mystique and establishing what Ferre means in the absence of it’s namesake.
For their S/S 09 outing the duo created a vision of luxurious and modern femininity. (Gianfranco Ferre S/S 09 VIDEO | SLIDESHOW ) The color palate was minimal – neutrals dominated followed by hints of metallic. The shapes were streamlined – curving folds of fabric twisting into accents on skirts and blouses – together these touches resulted in a look that was spare and elegant.
Though the gilded suits and smart little skirts are wearable, this kind of glamour is anything but inclusive. Refinement and a wasp waist are required of the wearer – not everyone has the panache or the figure to wear silver satin head to toe but for a select few the look is irresistible. Moving from day to night the duo’s vision for evening wear is sensual yet chaste. The silhouette is exaggerated – the same nipped waist and extreme, almost sharp hips are carried into evening – but the look refrains from delving into sexier territory. There is a certain modesty – even the shapely black evening gowns leave much to the imagination. Naturally, this leaves the door open for eccentric accessories and this seasons collection of space age shoes is especially daring.
The real triumph of this collection is the careful defining of the Ferre image. Aquilano and Rimondi have set up an appealing framework for future collections. Their daringly chic yet restrained vision for the Ferre woman – is an enticing addition to the fashion cast of characters.