It’s hard to think of a collection that combines leopard prints, neon, gorilla silkscreens and scalloped edges as being restrained but Christopher Kane’s odd (and at times perplexing) Spring/Summer collection is just that. Rather than the explosion of excess Kane gave us in his landmark first collection were given something softer. Though there are harsh elements like Planet of the Apes-inspired dresses replete with fangs, the look overall is subdued and feminine.

Scalloped edges and mostly muted colors create a delicate and uniform look, the combination of sheer fabric and the repetitious circular disk theme is odd yet ethereal. As the models glided down the runway their dresses took flight – the lighter than air creations moved with them, adding a new layer of beauty to the presentation. Though the parade of one circle motif dress after another bordered on redundant it’s this singular dominant theme that anchored the entire collection and will no doubt prove as omnipresent as Kane’s modular minis from his debut.

For all the good there is bad and ugly – the maribou accented dresses are too Nomi Malone for anyone to take them seriously. As an accent maribou ranks up there with pink feathers – adding it to anything gives a touch of campy wit but is camp really what one looks for in an otherwise thoughtful collection? There is humor and then there are jokes. The more Kane pushed into the exagerratted the more the collection lost focus. As hammy as his reference points were his most successful moments involved transcending those literal messages and softening the look – though the craving for animalistic moments was aptly satisfied by those blazing King Kongs.