There are few frills in Sophia Kokosalaki’s first resort collection . A smattering of gold silk and a few Nefertiti-esque necklaces are the only hints of decadence but there is the sense that the spartan creations Kokosalaki shows would be overwhelmed by anything more. Even the coup de grâce final evening dress with its exquisite tailoring seems unfit for embellishment – its freshness could potentially be lost with the addition of anything too grandiose.
The neutral toned draped and smocked dresses with their soft gatherings and pleats are similarly subtle. The hallmarks of Kokosalaki’s work – draping, goddess gowns and novel cuts – remain but they exist in a more pared down fashion – less Sophia Loren and more Sofia Coppola. Fall’s parade of brooding glamazons has been replaced by a much more introverted muse. Compared to the daring shapes and curious textiles utilized for the fall showing the simplicity of resort seems slightly jejune but the shift in perspective is not without merit.
Novel ideas permeate every stitch in the collection – particularly in the realm of texture. From the raw edged crescent cutouts of the white cocktail dress to the three dimensional appearance of the gold tops every piece begs to be touched. Even the plainer ensembles shine through with their whimsical color-blocking and frosty pastels. Accessories were on the back-burner for the most part but the sky high pumps and sandals with their pompoms and ankle ties provided an added visual bonus. Prepare to see them in every editorial under the sun soon enough.
Innovation can also be found in the re-imagined versions of the trench coat and lightweight jacket. Instead of simple tried and true tan were treated to a smoked grey and gold version infused with every ounce of military chic you can get. The outerwear is not just smart – its downright lethal and lends a hard edge to the otherwise soft and light collection.