Experimental Belgian design houses with reclusive head designers rarely blip the radar of the general populace but Maison Martin Margiela continues its rapid fire expansion into the mainstream. With a growing cult that extends beyond fashion insiders and a full slate of fresh projects (including a fragrance in development) the brand has reached critical mass. This season Margiela tests the waters outside its avant-gardist niche by delving into one of the most tradition steeped arenas in fashion – jewelry.

Working in conjunction with Diamiani, Margiela’s collection is sleek and heavy with all the prerequisite edginess one has come to expect from the house. There are the gleaming necklaces that resemble elegant chain metal. The flat sculptural signet rings and bracelets that almost beg to be engraved and of course the jawbreaker sized silver and gold ring. A hefty bauble designed to be noticed yet devoid of anything even remotely vulgar. For a first collection this is truly impressive as it manages to fit the Margiela standards whilst still retaining a potent sense of luxuriousness. Even those who find armored shoulder pads and fishnet body suits to be a tad much can walk away with something uniquely Margiela.