With the breakneck pace of fashion its rare to find a designer who latches onto something good and develops it. Riccardo Tisci is such a designer, in his work for Givenchy he has built an aesthetic through the maturation of core ideas. While other designers jump manically from theme to theme Tisci can successfully build upon the same framework for several seasons.
Givenchy Resort 09 is not a groundbreaking collection but it is an inspired one – the remixed versions of tried and true standards serve to make Tisci’s work even more palatable to a broader audience. There is an ease to the collection. Few people can pull off neo-goth leather pants and stacks of dangling silver chains but translate that same feel into a smart set of blazers and shirtdresses and it becomes accessible. What the collection lacks in nuance it makes up for in user-friendliness. The flamenco influence of Fall’s lacy blouses is deconstructed and paired with the same bubblelicious hot pink that made many of the couture looks so memorable. While black is a Givenchy mainstay color and print dominate the best of the resort offerings. From the gossamer light persimmon colored mini dress to the conceptual (shades of s/s 07 couture) prints – the most memorable pieces were more than simply basic.
When Tischi gets it right his hits are unbeatable but when he gets it wrong the effects are near disastrous. Take this collection’s flat gold cowboy boots – a Glitter Gulch touch to an otherwise understated collection. Thankfully the omnipresent (and near expiration date) gladiator sandals are considerably chicer.