THE REALM OF THE SENSES

Jeff Burton understands subtlety. Unlike most purveyors of salacious imagery, Burton takes the cunning approach rather than the obvious one – if you would like in your face (read: crotch) titillation please see Uncle Terry. Knowing that Burton began is career shooting on sets of adult films, gives you a hint of the kind of things he has to offer, but ultimately it is a red herring. There is sex – the subjects of Burton’s pictures appear to be in a constant state of ecstasy, whether they are arching their backs and parting their lips, or taking drags from post-coital cigarettes – but it never strays into gratuitous territory. Even when shooting porn stars like the nubile Sasha Grey, Burton manages to maintain an aura of mystery. His world is at once familiar and new; somewhere in between Marilyn Minter’s subversiveness and Nan Goldin’s voyeurism, lies the place Burton takes you to. You are given a glimpse into his reality, hidden behind palm leaves and shrouded in mist, blurry and out of focus in the background. Every time I see one of his pictures I get chills…

Angela Lindvall | LA Times, 2008

The Other Place, 2005

Untitled (Black Ribbon), 2002

Hollywood Sign | Vogue Paris, 2006

Mariacarla Boscono | Vogue Paris, 2006

Brett Easton Ellis | Fantastic Man, 2009

Sasha Grey, 2009

Untitled #151 (Picket Fence), 2001

Untitled #192 (Stoplight with Palms), 2005

Sasha Grey, 2009

Untitled #113 (Bougainvillea), 2000

Vogue Hommes International, 2009

Red Campaign, 2008

FORD FUSION

The new Tom Ford lipsticks will not give you an orgasm.

Shocking news, but it is important for people to know the truth. In spite of the scintillating campaign featuring Jon Kortajarena in what looks like a reprise of his ‘Single Man’ role as a slick hustler, the highway robbery $45 dollar price tag and Tom Ford’s unspoken yet implied desire to personally arouse your…interest, the lipsticks are just lipsticks. Brilliantly pigmented, incredibly moisturizing, lush lipsticks, presented in hard white casing that looks as though it could double as a blunt instrument fit for assault. Bright, attention grabbing colors that could (if the advertising is to be believed) look perfect smeared on the face of your handsome Spanish lover, as you indulge in night of passion so intense that you -

Tom Ford Private Blend Lip Color in Bruised Plum, Smoke Red & Pink Dusk

Wait. It is just lipstick. $45 dollar lipstick, in a white case that will end up scratched at the bottom of your purse and make you wonder just why you blew all that money the second you get your Amex bill. That is of course Tom Ford’s trick, he creates a world of lusty luxury you want to be a part of, and products good enough to almost be worth his price point. If you’re looking for a great show stopper look, you can’t go wrong with Ford’s Smoke Red, but if you’re looking for anything more than that you might as well save your pennies. That said if you want the luxurious feel of Tom Ford on your lips (minus the perma-stubble) you are in for a truly decadent treat; I couldn’t resist picking up a few shades and the long lasting, smooth as silk feel is out of sight.

GENDER DYNAMICS

The there is a great deal of buzz surrounding the new Givenchy campaign, due to its early release (summer hasn’t even started and already we get a fall campaign, further proof that the 24/7 fashion cycle thrives on immediacy) but also due to the fact that it prominently features a transgendered person amongst its lineup of beauties. For all fashion’s proclamations of inclusiveness and acceptance, you’d be hard pressed to find examples of trans individuals in editorials and campaigns. Fashion flirts with androgyny on a daily basis, it flaunts sexual imagery whenever it can, but only rarely does it touch on something legitimately topical. Benetton

SIMPLE GEOMETRY

The Hyères prize is as good a litmus test for fashion’s future as any design competition can be. The likes of Viktor and Rolf, Gaspard Yurkievich and Felipe Oliveira Baptista have debuted at the innovative festival, so it is no shock that this year’s contest introduces us to some idiosyncratic talents. Among them, winner Alexandra Verschueren stands out as an exceptionally individual voice. Looking at her collection it is easy to see why she won the competition; origami inspired fashions have become increasingly popular in recent seasons, but at their best Verschueren’s pieces eschew the trappings of their paper inspirations. There are strange and intriguing new shapes, but there are also smart updates on classic pieces, like the cocktail dress that looks as though it was reshaped by pinking shears, or any of the one of a kind coats. Their range breathes fresh life into the simple concepts; everyone will be wearing a camel coat come fall, but how many boast geometrical frills remniscent of wearable graph paper? The strength of Verschueren’s work lies in its ability to elevate these normal staples into something magical.

THE INDIVIDUALS: OUTSIDE PASTIS