QUELLE SURPRISE!

When opening the December issue of Vogue, one is prepared for the visual assault of holiday themed fashion fantasy, but the most compelling image may be this simple Demarchelier beauty shot. The neon hair, grey Alexander Wang jersey dresses and melancholy stares of Viktoriya Sasonkina and Karlie Kloss, combine to create something beautiful, modern and unexpected. As uncomplicated as the picture is, it still managed to shake me. Here is a concise distillation of everything I am enjoying at the moment and it leaves me wanting more. What I wouldn’t give for 12 more pages like this!

IN WONDERLAND

Nothing makes jewelry look lovelier than an added touch of whimsy. Designer baubles are after all, serious business – from the un-recession friendly prices to the politics of jewels themselves, it is easy to forget the lighthearted fun one gets just from looking at something sparkly. Thankfully, jewelry designers Ilenia Corti and Matteo Mena have created an inspired collection called, Vernissage that reminds us of the playful spirit of gems. From the fireflies buzzing around the webpage, to the charming sight of golden birds nesting on gold filagree necklaces, the entire project delights. You may find yourself thinking back to childhood fairytales (as I did – if Alice had a jewelry box this is what would be in it) as you  look at each handcrafted piece.

LIP SMACKER

One of the coolest beauty looks (literally and figuratively) to emerge this season is undoubtedly the visually arresting violet lip. There is something simple and yet subversive about sporting a bold color that falls off the friendly spectrum of reds and pinks. While there is always the danger of simply looking like a victim of poor circulation the perfectly painted purple lips Lloyd Simmonds gave the girls at Vena Cava ( Vena Cava S/S 10 Beauty Slideshow ) were the definition of cool. Granted, you can’t buy Simmond’s custom mix of MAC pigments (yet) but the bright matte color struck just the right chord.

GEOMETRIC SEQUENCE

The words “change of perspective” get thrown around a lot when it comes to art but looking at Anna Higgie’s impressive image shattering illustrations is one way to make the phrase literal. Starting with striking images of faces (you may see a familiar one amongst the array of drawings – Ali Michael for instance) and then fragmenting the works with lines, swirls, and other graphic touches, Higgie presents an eye-catching take on the cubist tradition.

DON DRAPER

Seasonal flairs and continual growth aside, every collection by Haider Ackermann can be boiled down to a simple story detailing the ongoing romantic love affair between one man and draping. As routine as that may seem it is not a detriment- Ackermann’s passion for draping and his relentless expertise at the delicate art have garnered him a cult following of loyal admirers. For his latest collection ( Haider Ackermann S/S 10 Slideshow ) he refined his long and lean aesthetic into something light and airy.

THE BIG CHILL

As anyone in New York can tell you, autumn has finally arrived after the kind of lukewarm summer that can only be described as meh. What better time to unearth your fall wardrobe from storage boxes and snuggle up to cozy fabrics like flannel, wool and tweed? Vogue manages to be on the ball and serve up a story that features almost every pastoral trend of the season (good and bad) along with a psuedo-farming theme that is both comic and nostalgic. Name one farmhand who works in thigh-high Prada boots…

EASY PEASY

Hannah McGibbon makes it all look easy. Her casual, early Philo aesthetic may not resonate with everyone but something has to be said about anyone who can make exorbitantly priced accessories look downright necessary in this day and age. When her boho luxe heroines sauntered down the catwalk this season wearing crocodile bags ( Chloe Croc Accessories S/S 10 Slideshow ) with their comfy suits and dresses, the ultimate in exotic purses seemed refreshingly accessible. Truly enterprising girls will definitely be toting her grandmother’s vintage Hermes Croc Constance or Chanel 2.55 instead of the Chloe facsimile but they may find it harder to pass up one of those delicious totes.

PENN STATES

Like many people one of my earliest fashion memories comes courtesy of Irving Penn. Back in the day when exquisite imported magazines were little more than a twinkle in my eye, I purchased an issue of Vogue for 25 cents at a local flea market. Granted, this was not my first issue of Vogue but it is the one I remember best of all thanks to Penn’s expressive black and white portraits of Shalom Harlow, Stella Tennant, Amber Valleta & Kirsty Hume.

DO IT YOURSELF

Lets be honest with each other, with the exception of a few choice shows (and we’ll get to those winners soon) there wasn’t much cause for excitement this season. Things are seeming very been there, done that. Remixes and rehashes abound and the freshest things on the runway are often the pubescent models rather than the clothes. Perhaps it is this noble spirit of repetition that makes iArtist’s DIY versions of contemporary art masterpieces so very amusing. What could be more postmodern than building your own Damien Hirst sculpture at home? With everyone in fashion copying everyone else perhaps iArtist will expand its series into designer territory. A make your own Balenciaga S/S 07 leggings kit cannot be far behind.

IMAGE READY

It is impossible to sift through the endless stream of images from fashion week without feeling slightly overwhelmed. Whether it is backstage, front row, a detail of a shoe and so on so forth there are just so many different images out there – we can become desensitized to the imagery due to its sheer overabundance. Perhaps that is why Anne Combez’s backstage images are such a pleasant surprise. Capturing both the frenzy and malaise of the backstage grind with equal attention they hint at the ennui beneath the glamour.